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Outdoor Insects
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Attic/Cluster Flies
by Dennis M. Ferraro Extension Educator Douglas/Sarpy Extension Unit
Cluster/attic flies are about 1/4 to 3/8 inch long and dark gray
with yellowish or cream colored abdomens. They can be positively
identified by the golden hairs on top of the mid section or thorax.
Cluster/attic flies are much slower than most flies, and can easily
be swatted, especially during the winter months.
These flies live mostly outdoors, and females deposit their eggs in
cracks in the soil. Larvae/maggots hatch and feed on earthworms.
Even though there are many of these insects around, they aren't
pests during most of the year.
So how do you end up sharing your house with them? As the weather
gets cooler in the fall, they look for places to overwinter.
Starting in September, cluster/attic flies gather on the south and
west sides of homes and buildings where they can often be seen in
great numbers. They find cracks and seams, and cluster in attics or
upper peak locations of structures.
Once in a building, they will be seen only on warm days or when some
wander into the heated living portions. They get into interior rooms
through light fixtures, window casings and door frames.
Cluster/attic flies don't reproduce or cause maggots inside the
home, and they're not after food. Indoors they usually fly slowly
near windows, lights and ceilings.
To control these flies, first try to keep them from entering the
attic spaces by sealing and caulking opening. If the insects are
already in the attic or it isn't possible to seal the area,
insecticides can be used. The best method is to (1) fog the
overwintering areas with pyrethrin/pyrethroid foggers and (2)
install DDVP or vapona residue strips in the area if it is closed in
and not above a location where food is prepared.
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Fungal/Fruit Flies
by Dennis M. Ferraro Extension Educator Douglas/Sarpy Extension Unit
As fruits and vegetables ripen in gardens, these flies become very
numerous. Warm humid weather the past few weeks also provided good
conditions for them. They are very common on fruit trees as well as
plants such as tomatoes, peppers and eggplants.
Normally, white flies can damage garden plants, but at this time of
year control is unnecessary. The best defense against white flies
and fruit flies is sanitation. Don't let ripe produce or dead plants
remain in the garden.
To prevent indoor infestations, carefully inspect and clean fruits
and vegetables before bringing them into the house. If fruit flies
are a problem indoors, locate and remove the source. Sprays do not
seem to help unless they are placed directly on the source.
Insecticidal fogs only eliminate the exposed stages of the adult
flies or gnats.
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Houseflies
by Dennis Ferraro Extension Educator Douglas/Sarpy Extension Unit
These insects, also known as "filth flies," occasionally appear
indoors in the fall. While mainly just a nuisance, houseflies can
transmit diseases and cause food spoilage.
These flies need some organic debris on which to live and reproduce.
If an occasional fly is sighted in the fall, don't worry. But it
they constantly reappear, there is probably a nesting site within
the house. The primary attraction for houseflies is food waste. This
can be just a small amount, for example, that associated with
recycling materials. This may be eliminated by rinsing cans and
other containers and placing them in sealed bags for storage until
they are recycled. The problem may also be handled by placing them
in a cold area, such as a garage.
Other places to check for houseflies include under refrigerators
where food may be spilled, garbage or trash containers, seldom-used
drains, and heavily-strained carpets. In cases of sudden, severe
infestation, the problem may be that an animal such as rodent or
bird has died in an attic, wall space or chimney.
Chemicals give little or no control of houseflies. Adult flies have
a very short lifespan, so physically removing their bodies and the
nesting sites will be more helpful. There are also numerous
non-chemical traps such as fly paper and fly jars available for home
fly control.
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Sawflies
by Dennis Ferraro Extension Educator Douglas/Sarpy Extension Unit
The adult resembles a small bee, and appears in early spring. The
female lays eggs on the current year's needles of several conifer
trees. The eggs are laid near the ends of the ends of the branch.
Upon hatching in late April to mid-May, the larvae begin to feed on
young needles.
As the larvae grow, they move inward on the branch and begin to feed
on older needles. This pest devours the entire needle, leaving only
small stubs on the branch.
When sawfly larvae are disturbed, they form an S-shape with their
bodies. Pine sawflies affect ponderosa, Scotch, Austrian and mugo
pines. These larvae are about 3/4 to one inch in length and a
uniform yellowish-green or grayish-green color. Pine sawflies feed
voraciously, and may cause severe damage to trees.
Yellowheaded spruce sawflies attack all types of spruce trees. The
larvae are 1/2 to 3/4 inch long and light yellowish-green with
several grayish-green stripes down their bodies. For this pest to
severely damage or kill a tree, it usually takes three to four
consecutive years of infestation.
Natural enemies are the best method of controlling both pine and
yellowheaded spruce sawfly larvae. Encouraging birds to feed in
infested areas is very beneficial. In minor infestations on small
trees, larvae can be picked off the tree and immersed in a container
of soapy water. Commercially-available virus products can be used to
kill sawfly larvae.
If you choose to use an insecticide, spray needles thoroughly when
sawfly larvae are first sighted in May and June. Chemicals such as
carbaryl (Sevin) or acephate (Orthene) may be used.
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